In the Shadow of Sagmanthra (Everest), Lohtse and Amdablam

Tendi’s small powers delivered in spades today. Under a clear, crisp blue sky we left Namche refreshed, excited and wearing clean, dry socks. As we climbed higher and higher we were treated to the most incredible views of Everest, Lohtse and Amdablam. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and we walked for most of the morning in silence, simply mesmerized by their beauty.

Soon we arrived at the junction to the trail leading to Goyko Lakes, our destination of choice. It was with a sense of relief that we left the main Everest Base Camp route. The number of tourists has dropped dramatically and once again we are enjoying those quiet moments of solitude along the way.

While Kim and I grunt, groan, puff and pant, Rob continues to be strong. At dinner I suggested he switch packs with one of our porters. My desperate attempt to see him suffer a little. Not that I want my Robbie to suffer, but misery does love company!

As I put this blog post to bed, we are snuggled up in Dhole, altitude 4110 metres (13,200 feet). We are all feeling well and Tendi is watching us closely for any signs of altitude sickness. It is getting much colder, especially at night, making it difficult to leave the warm wood fire in the tea house dining room to return to our unheated guest rooms. We all go to bed hopeful we won’t wake up in the night needing to pee, for it is a long, cold walk to the loo!

Tomorrow, we climb again.

Giggle of the day

Dal Bhat is the common dish around Nepal and our Dream Team eats several portions a day of this rice and lentil meal. The ongoing joke on trail is Dal Bhat Power - 24 hour. Today, we introduced a new power food to the mix. We dished out Gummie Bears to the crew and declared Gummy Power - 1 hour.

Are We Loving Everest to Death?

For several days now we have been following the relatively quiet and unspoiled Pikey Peek trail and have been fortunate enough to have the path almost to ourselves. To say today was a bit of a culture shock would be a gross understatement. You see, today was the day we linked up with the highly popular route to Everest Base Camp. What a difference a day makes!

We have all seen the images from Everest’s Hillary Step of climbers log jammed in horrendously long lines waiting for their chance to summit. Well, I would suggest the Everest Base Camp route is the equivalent of that but for trekkers. Long lines of gasping, pole planting people clog the trail. There are a multitude of tea houses and stores lining the path, all serving the throngs of tourists who have flocked to this special place. We notice that food and accommodation prices are dramatically higher than what we encountered on Pikey Peek. Nepal’s version of “pop-up” stores are everywhere, selling everything from toilet paper and lip balm to souvenir toy yaks. I shudder at the thought of a tourist asking their porter to lug a souvenir yak all the way to Everest and back! To add to the chaos, commercial porters and mule trains also use the route to transport all the supplies that the trekkers require. It is a fascinating supply and demand scenario and leaves me scratching my head.

We learned that approximately 600 people per day are flying into the Lukla airport to begin 14 day Everest or Bust experiences. As we walk we can hear the sounds of planes and helicopters coming and going with their cargo of trekkers. Of course, we are here too! So are we part of an over tourism problem or are we bringing much needed tourist dollars to a country that could certainly use the revenue?

I wrestle with these thoughts as we join the masses and grunt and groan our way from Phakding to Namche. 

My angst is soon replaced with awe as once again the sheer beauty of the land overwhelms me. We and dozens of our hiking buddies are stopped at a checkpoint at the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. Rob’s camera is taken and his backpack is searched as they suspect he is flying drones in the area. To be fair the outfit he is wearing is modelled after the unibomber, so it isn’t a stretch to think the police would be suspicious! Thanks to Tendi’s small powers, we take about 30 minutes to navigate the bureaucracy of the checkpoint and soon are back on track inching our way higher and higher.

It has been a challenging and yet incredibly rewarding day. Suspension bridges, waterfalls, and mountain views! We are now at 3440 metres. Tomorrow is a rest and acclimatization day, and if we are brave enough a day to deal with our disgusting, stinky socks. Please wish us luck!

Giggle of the day

It is quite common to see well organized and professional looking expedition companies hosting large groups of clients. They stand out as their gear is all stored in matching brightly coloured logo’d dry bags and often strapped to the sides of mules. We passed a group who were obviously involved in an orientation session with their expedition guide. Rob overheard a young gal ask her leader if her lululemon yoga pants would be suitable. I wonder what Sir Edmond Hillary would think of that?

Kim’s Random Notes from the Trail - October 22

It is with great trepidation and a little embarrassment that I have asked Kim to write a “guest” blog post. As you know, Kim is a published author about to embark on a UK book tour in Spring 2024. She has graciously agreed (I tried to catch her in a moment of exhaustion) to add her thoughts to our blog. So without further ado, let me introduce you to Kim Letson - author, adventurer, nomad.

I’m not up to the performance expected of such an intro. Having managed to pick up something that’s morphed into a persistent cough - probably in Seattle - I’ve not been at my best this past two weeks. Question - what’s worse than being ill on a trek? Answer - trekking with someone who coughs half the night and every time she’s confronted with walking up a hill. Next question - do you have a clue how many times we walk up hill every day? Answer - neither do I - can’t keep count. But it’s a lot. We walk up steep steps and down steep steps and up again so often that when a bit of flat trail presents itself we loose our minds with the joy of just waking.

But Jane has told you about all that fun stuff so I will add a few random notes about day-to-day life on the trail hat she hasn’t mentioned.

Rooms at Guesthouses:

We often share small rooms filled with three small homemade beds with reasonably comfortable mats on top. There are seldom any hooks upon which to hang anything. Unpacking produces a sort of hurricane effect. As sweat-damp or rain and sweat damp clothes come off and get dropped around, dry warmer evening attire is hauled on and sleeping bags are laid out. We usually collapse among the confusion of clothing and bedding chaos to relax after all day upping and downing on the trail. After a few minutes Ringja arrives, menu in hand and from our prone positions on our beds, we order dinner.

Dinners - well all meals actually.

The serving sizes are enormous. Always much more than any of us can manage so we’ve taken to ordering two different meals and sharing them between the three of us. Seems sensible, but our delightful porters - who also oversee our food consumption - are puzzled by this unorthodox behaviour. It’s taken several meals in this format for two extra plates to arrive with the two food-heaped plates. The porters, and even Tendi, watch with great interest as we divide heaps of rice or potatoes or pasta or rice or potatoes or pasta - you get the drift - our meals are rice or potatoes or pasta - into three portions. I think they fear they are trekking with the deranged. Our meals always end with a large plate of pomegranate seeds with three spoons or apple slices with three toothpicks. The guys have been carrying kilos of apples and pomegranates for us to enjoy twice a day. It’s over the top but we can’t dissuade them.

Facilities:

So far only one guesthouse has had an outhouse - that could change tomorrow. The rest have had inside toilets and in Packding we had ensuites. There have even been a couple of western style toilets - bliss for stiff tired knees to not have to drop into a deep prolonged squat to …. Well you can imagine.

Very few toilets have sinks in the same room. Sometimes there’s a sink nearby and sometimes there’s a tap in the vicinity One goes to the toilet fully equipped with everything one might require for the visit. Used tissue is popped into a nearby bucket or basket. Flushing is accomplished by dipping a jug into a large bucket of water and sloshing the water into the hole without soaking one’s feet in the process. A few toilets don’t have lighting so one either leaves the door ajar or takes along a headlamp with other necessary items. 

Temperatures and Weather:

Nights are cold and clear.

In the sun - mornings have been warm.

During the mid afternoons clouds arrive and the temperatures become cool and damp.

Rooms that have southern exposure during the day are comfortable when we first arrive. Otherwise they are COLD. If the dining rooms have had a fire lit at around 5 pm, they become cozy. It’s always a shock to dash from warm dining room to frosty bedroom and leap into bed. The hardest part of the day is crawling out of warm sleeping bags in the morning. Well maybe not quite the hardest part - huffing up hills and slogging through mule poo puddles isn’t easy either.

A somber note:

In avoiding the long muddy detour between Bupsa and Surkey the day before yesterday (the day after we made the detour) three local people ran into trouble trying to access the usual route. One died. Two were injured. Our thoughts go out to them and their families and we thank Tendi for making the decision to drag us through the quagmire of mule poo to keep us safe.

Fun Factor:

It’s high.

We’ve all had our “OMG what have I gotten myself into” moments. Jane and I have achy knees. Rob has yet to even breath hard. The scenery, the many amusing and remarkable moments on the trail, people met, experiences on both sides of the fun equation are making this adventure memorable for all the right reasons. Just today we ran into Thomas from Switzerland again - shouts of joy and hugs all around. Our connection - this high and beautiful place in the shadow of Chomolungma.

Munks , Mules and Mud - October 19

We have been trekking now for 7 incredible days. The scenery is constantly changing - alpine meadows, lush jungle, thundering waterfalls, surging rivers, ridge walks and epic mountain views. Truthfully, time no longer seems to matter. We have begun to fall into an easy pattern. Wake, eat, hike straight uphill, drink tea, hike straight downhill, eat lunch, hike straight uphill, drink tea, hike straight downhill, eat dinner and then fall into bed utterly exhausted to begin the routine all over again the next day. We joke that we longer require a brain, as we gratefully follow Tendi’s lead. We move when he tells us to and stop when he gives the rest signal. We are like lemmings ready to follow him over a cliff.

And today, we were almost required to follow him over said cliff. Unfortunately, road construction between Bupsa and Surkey had decimated the trail and in fact had washed out a section. Clearly concerned, the Dream Team told us to wait and proceeded over the cliff into the bush searching for a safe way to rejoin the trail. There was quite a lengthy discussion, which Tendi later revealed was about how to get Didi Kim safely over the cliff. Calmly, the team announced it was a no go. We were forced to turn back and attempt a different route to Surkey.

As we retraced our steps we looked high up the steep slope and noticed a mule train slowly coming down. Rob, Kim and I looked at each other in complete shock as we realized that was the alternate route we were to take. We really didn’t have a choice, so we dug in and began the slog. On we climbed, through the mud and muck, until Tendi stopped us once again. There was another animated discussion. It became clear that we had missed a turn. Feeling quite disheartened we retraced our steps until we found the right trail. 

This alternate route was the equivalent of Toronto’s 401, but in this case the mule trains made up the heavy traffic. We were frequently scrambling up the sides of the bank to get out of the way and more importantly to avoid being pushed over the bank. For the first few kilometres I tried to avoid stepping in donkey crap, but as time wore on and my legs tired I gave up and grudgingly tromped through mud, poop and pee. Later that evening in the tea house, other hikers joked about the route and aptly named it the Donkey Crap Trail. 

Just when I was feeling at my lowest, the trail “gods” presented me with the most precious of gifts. I was perched on the side of the mountain, allowing a mule train to pass and I looked up ahead. Coming towards me, was a group of young monks teetering and tottering on the side of the bank and calmly holding up their long red robes. It was quite a sight, and just what I needed!

Giggle of the day

Meeting trail buddies along the way is one of my favourite things about self-propelled travel. There is something about the shared experience, perhaps even the shared suffering that brings people from around the world together at rest stops, view points and in the case of Nepal - tea houses. This trek we have been fortunate to meet a lively Irishman named Colm who is always quick with a smile and laugh and Thomas a 70 year old Swiss gentleman who moves like a man half his age. Today’s giggle is brought to you courtesy of Thomas.

As we slide, slipped and slogged our way down the steep muddy trail we heard a loud call from above. It was our trail buddy Thomas. “Heh, Jane he bellowed - Welcome to Hell!

The Dream Team - October 16

Months ago when we began planning (and by we - I mean Kim) we discussed hiring guides and porters. It is now a law in Nepal, that all trekkers must hire a certified guide. We learned that most reputable guides will also insist on the use of porters. Truthfully, and naively, Rob and I bristled at the thought of having someone else carry our packs. To our western sensibilities it just didn’t seem right. Oh, how our thinking has changed. We would not be sitting in the dining hall of the Apple Garden Guesthouse in Junbesi without them. In fact, we likely would have turned around an hour after leaving Khamding if we had to do it on our own. So without further ado, I would like to introduce you to our guide and porter dream team!

Tendi Sherpa - Guide

Kim first met Tendi in 2011 and since meeting Tendi she has never trekked with anyone else. Patient, kind, knowledgeable and quick to smile Tendi sets the tone for the group. Clearly, he is highly respected by the porters and they are eager to please him. When asked questions about the route or weather conditions he always responds - “not to worry, Tendi has small powers.” I would like to suggest he actually has SUPER powers!

Rinje 

Rinje is Tendi’s son and an absolute delight. In his youth he studied as a monk, and he is happy to share his learnings. Fortunately, his English is much better than our Nepali, so it is easy to chat with him and share the odd joke. This is his first gig as a porter, and it is evident he is working incredibly hard to meet Tendi’s high expectations. Without exaggeration, he must weigh 110 pounds. Sadly, I think our packs weigh more than that! He as been assigned to Didi Kim and dutifully keeps a watchful eye over her.

Gel Sheree 

Gel Sheree, a strapping athletic 19 year old, has been assigned to Rob. Before leaving Kamding, his mother gave us a Khata to protect us during the trek. Her gesture definitely struck a chord in me, as I understand a mothers worry. Although his English is not as good as Renje’s we have found an easy way between us. He is beginning to tease me! As I cautiously cross streams, he leaps! As I gingerly descend steep slopes he runs! As I struggle uphill, he mimics my panting. He is fun! I feel an enormous responsibility to return him home safely to his mamma. Rob has been teasing Gel Sheree relentlessly as earlier in the trek he forgot his jacket at one of our rest stops. We were all exhausted, yet he managed to spring all the way back to look for his coat. 

Pasang 

A seasoned trekker, proud daddy and excellent chef, my porter Pasang appears to be the leader of the porter team. I laugh to myself as I remember the old camp rule - make friends with the cook. DONE! His call to action is “party-time” and when Pasang says party time we don our packs and start putting one foot in front of the other. His trademark move is the way in which he presents the food he has carefully prepared. With a slight bow and a huge smile, he lays the plates before us. I admire his ability to gauge both the mood and ability of our group. He sets the pace to match our energy levels and does this masterfully without fanfare. Unfortunately, I am developing a freudian reaction when I notice him slow down our walking speed as it means steep hills ahead. They terrify me!

I find myself being very careful with my words when I speak to any of the Dream Team, because the instant they sense we might want something, they work tirelessly to meet our needs. I worry about the weight of the packs they are carrying, especially on the bone crushing downhills and fret over their footwear. We are in our high tech vibram sole hiking boots, moaning and groaning about our feet and they are wearing sneakers. I worry about their clothing. We are in our comfy down filled jackets and they are wearing windbreakers. I worry about them eating enough. They always wait for us to finish our meals before they dive in and I know they must be famished! I worry about a lot of things. Yet, despite my worries, they are happy. I catch them in moments when they don’t know I am watching and they are goofing around, joking and teasing each other. They are the unsung heroes of the Nepal trekking community and we are forever in their debt.

Giggle of the day

During one long, arduous climb, we asked Gel Sheree how much further to the tea house, to which he replied, “45 years!” We are confident that it must feel like that to him!

Sucking Wind - October 14

Rob and I have both played our fair share of competitive sports over the years, and have endured coaches screaming at us as we ran endless lines in stuffy gyms, yet our definition of sucking wind has been forever changed. Over the course of two days, we have climbed 1377 metres, that’s roughly 5,000 feet the hard way! Trekking at altitude is a whole new experience. I find myself gasping for breath and feeling like my heart is about to explode out my chest. All this while moving at a pace that would embarrass the slowest of all snails. On the other hand, Rob is crushing it! He has yet to break a sweat or pant. I try to be happy for him, and not jealous, but the green eyed monster is a difficult beast to tame.

Fortunately, the slow pace allows for frequent stops to take in the incredible views and soak up the essence of this magical place. From forested trails to open alpine meadows covered in wildflowers, the trail never disappoints. We were delighted at our first Yak and Nak sightings and as a courtesy we suggested Rob take the lead as we navigated our way by them. Kim kindly reminded Rob to pass on the uphill side, as Yaks have been known to push unsuspecting trekkers over the cliff.

Tonight we are cuddled up at the Pikey Peek Lodge, elevation 3777 metres. By Nepal tea house standards our accommodation is quite luxurious. We have a light in our room and the squat toilet is inside. We have a fabulous sink in the hallway, but no running water. Why the sink one might ask. Why not? The rooms are not heated so we pass our down time snuggled in our sleeping bags, chatting, journaling and reading - a most wonderful way to end a day of trekking.

Giggles of the day were plentiful:

We left Khamding, bursting with energy and excitement! Our hiking poles had barely hit the ground before we were invited for a cup to tea! Giggling we looked at each other and wondered how many cups of tea we would need to drink before we arrived at the trailhead.

To our amazement the cell phone coverage along the trail continues to be superb. Today we overhead a call from Tend’s wife Lamu to Tendi. She asked, “How are you doing? He replied, “we are doing.” Rob, Kim and I giggle at the thought of what that might mean!

Last, but not least, after dinner at the Pikey Peek Lodge, we found ourselves caught up in a Trekkers Disco party. Several young trekkers cranked up the music and invited us to dance. With Kim cheering us on, Rob and I took to the dance floor and did our best to represent Canadian old farts! To our great shame, altitude also affects ones ability to dance the night away. After one song, and a round of applause we said good night and put ourselves to bed.

Everest - October 13

Far off in the distance, there she stood - Chomolungma. Peeking at us through the clouds, she called to us to come closer. Indescribable. …and YES, I cried!