It’s Getting Real - Gokyo - Elevation 4800 metres

We are in Gokyo, elevation 4800 metres - that’s 15,750 feet the hard way!

The Gokyo Valley is a fascinating mix of extremes. Extreme beauty - a series of three aquamarine coloured glacier lakes, snow-capped mountain peaks under brilliant blue skies and cascading waterfalls. Extreme harshness - barren landscapes reminiscent of the lunar surface, glacial valley stretching 2 - 3 km wide covered with sediment, rocks and boulders and extreme temperature swings. To this barren yet beautiful landscape throngs of trekkers seem to find their way. Like the landscape there are extremes. Some people are fit, well prepared and positive while others seem completely out of their element. Rumour has it there is a booming helicopter charter business operating out of Everest Base Camp returning trekkers who are simply overwhelmed and exhausted to the Lukla Airport. Once again this leaves me feeling shocked and saddened.

As I write this update, Rob and I are snuggled up in our sleeping bags once again wearing literally every piece of warm clothing that we have in our packs. It is currently minus 7 degrees. With a windchill temperatures tonight are rumoured to go to minus 20 degrees. Have I mentioned the tea house guest rooms do not have heat? The walls are made out of quarter inch plywood and there are no doors. Our water bottles are freezing and our fingers are numb. We are expecting it to be a long, chilly night.

Today has been unsettling to say the least. Last night, one of the trekkers down the hall was violently ill and had to airlifted out by helicopter early this morning. Several of the folk we have come to know over the last few days have turned around as they fall victim to the effects of altitude. Thankfully, our group is still feeling well, in large part due to Tendi’s experience. He has managed our altitude gains carefully, building in rest days as needed and watches us like a hawk looking for any signs or symptoms.

We are all feeling quite apprehensive as tomorrow we must cross Renjo La pass, elevation 5360 metres. Truthfully, the climb looks steep and incredibly challenging. Tendi, the ultimate optimist, reassures us that if we take it slowly, all will be fine. Rob, Kim and I have our doubts. We shall see what tomorrow holds. Bistari Bistari (slowly) is our Sherpa’s battle cry.

Giggle of the day

To say our accommodations in Gokyo are modest would be a gross understatement. We are grateful to have warm gracious hosts, terrific food and a roof over our heads, but during the afternoon we all suffered a severe case of guest house envy. High on the south facing slope of Gokyo stood the Gokyo Resort and Bakery. We could not resist temptation and soon found ourselves in a warm dining room complete with tablecloths and flowers. Kim ordered a slice of Black Forest Cake and a cappuccino. Such decadence high in the Himalayas.